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Earlier this week, Watches and Wonders 2023 saw Patek Philippe unveil 17 new watch models, from a design reinterpretation of a Grand Complications watch, to a new version of the timeless Gondolo and an expansion of the coveted Calatrava collection. The entire collection holds approximately 150 intricately and masterfully-crafted timepieces, wonderfully complemented by the new 2023 collection.
Each Patek Philippe collection exhibits its own character and its own method of innovation and expression. The Grandmaster Chime is notable for being Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch with 20 complications and five chiming modes.
Grand Complications
This year, Patek Philippe launches two new additions to the Grandmaster Chime collection. Reference 6300GR-001 presents for the first time in a Grandmaster Chime a two-colour version with white gold and rose gold, complemented by brown opaline dials. The timepiece adorns a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris pattern on the side and has a patinated alligator strap in two-tone chestnut brown with a bicolour folding buckle.
The manufacture also presents a unification between haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie through the creation of the Grandmaster Chime Haute Joaillerie Reference 6300/403G-001, exquisitely decorated with 291 baguette-cut diamonds and 118 baguette-cut emeralds. Both dials on this wristwatch are ebony-black opaline, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris pattern and a shiny black alligator leather strap with emerald-green hand stitching.
The Grand Complications collection now also boasts a spectacular Reference 5316/50P-001, with five of the most sought-after complications among connoisseurs – a tourbillon, a minute-repeater and a perpetual calendar, with retrograde date display and a moon-phase indication. This model adopts a new modern look with a platinum case and blue metallized sapphire crystal dial, with black-gradient rim bestowing an insight into the mechanics of the timepiece.
Rare Handcrafts
Patek Philippe presents two new reinterpretations in the Rare Handcrafts collection. The first is the Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531G-001 – the first minute repeater model in white gold, which always strikes the local time. The dial centre is adorned with a new cloisonné Grand Feu enamel motif, depicting one of the famous steamships of the Belle Époque fleet, which still sails on Lake Geneva today. The timepiece has skeletonized lugs, which afford an unobstructed view of the hand-guilloched pattern.
The Rare Handcrafts collection is also graced with another new model, the Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Reference 5178G-012. This timepiece features the deep, rich sound of “cathedral” gongs and is endowed with a hand-guilloched swirling pattern atop a new blue dial with Grand Feu flinqué enamel.
Calatrava
The Patek Philippe Calatrava collection has always been the embodiment of timeless grace and elegance. The collection is now expanding with the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001, which features a new caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement that corrects local time by the crown, a patented system. This wristwatch is housed in a rose-gold case, with a blue dial that is intricately embellished by hand.
The highly-recognizable Calatrava Pilot Travel Time now has two chronograph models for the first time. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-001 is adorned with a blue-grey sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; whilst the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5924G-010 has a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. Both of these classic timepieces house the caliber CH 28-520 C FUS self-winding movement, which unites three complications, namely a Travel Time dual time zone function, a fly-back chronograph, and the date indicated by a hand, paired with local time.
The manufacture also unveiled three new Calatrava timepieces – References 6007G-001, 6007G-010 and 6007G-011 which feature ebony-black dials that contain an embossed “carbon” pattern, and are presented in three colours: yellow, red, and sky blue.
The Calatrava range for women is also being expanded with the introduction of the new Calatrava self-winding Reference 4997/200R-001. The strap and dial are coloured purple, and the timepiece hosts a rose-gold case adorned with a diamond-set bezel. The dial is embossed with a concentric wave pattern, and is coated with over fifty layers of translucent lacquer, giving the dial an intense sense of depth.
Aquanaut
Patek Philippe brings the patented Annual Calendar to the cult Aquanaut Luce. The Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar Reference 5261R-001 offers a non-gemset complicated watch option for women, and is adorned with a blue-grey dial and strap with a rose gold case. The manufacture also presents the new self-winding Aquanaut Luce Reference 5268/200R-010 with a taupe strap complementing its rose gold case for the perfect “modern casual chic” style. The octagonal bezel is graced with 48 diamonds, and the case is water resistant to 120m.
For men, Patek Philippe presents the new Aquanaut Chronograph Reference 5968R-001, with a rose-gold case and sunburst dial, featuring a gradient of brown to black, and a composite strap to match.
Annual Calendar
Patek Philippe unveils another complicated watch for men, which represents a combination of two popular complications models, with the Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Reference 5905R-010. This timepiece features a blue sunburst dial and a rose gold case, distinguished by its concave bezel and hollowed flanks – a modern design for a timeless piece.
Gondolo
The unique Gondolo range inspired by Art Deco, also has a new addition in the form of a jewellery watch – the Gondolo Serata Reference 4962/200R-001. This elegant timepiece is presented in rose gold, set with spessartites arranged in a double colour gradient which highlights the refined curvature of the case. The brown-lacquered dial is adorned with a floral design, featuring contrasting finishes.
